Gardening Tip: Planting Native Flower Bulbs

 

Allium unifolium, one of the Western natives recently planted in Mother Nature's Montrose Garden.

Perennials from bulbs are true garden treasures.  The native varieties can be relatively inexpensive, particularly since many reproduce readily from offsets and/or seed.  They add a spot of color in early spring or summer, and can be used to brighten areas of unrelenting green. And they follow a schedule that reminds us of the seasonal cycle, giving us a treat to look forward to, year after year. 

Many Western native bulbs are planted in fall. But you need to get your orders in early (summer is best) to reserve bulbs for fall planting. Bulbs can be ordered on-line from most sources. And bulbs are shipped in time for appropriate planting, usually based on USDA Climate Zone.

Native bulbs can be challenging to find, particularly if you limit yourself to local natives.  But some western bulbs are propagated by native plant growers – some are even available from the larger commercial bulb producers.  For example, K. van Bourgondien, a Dutch bulb grower, offers Camassia quamash (Camas) and a few other western natives.  John Scheepers offers Camas, Allium unifolium and cultivars of several native Brodiaea, in addition to the more traditional garden bulbs.  Easy to Grow Bulbs also offers a collection of N. American species and cultivars.

Smaller Wild Hyacinth plants have naturalized from seed.

Seeds for some bulb-producing perennials are available from on-line native seed sources (see Native Plant and Seed Sources page, right).  Growing bulb perennials from seed takes time; many bulbs take three or more years to reach flowering size.  But seeds may be the only option for some rarer native species. And while requiring patience, growing bulbs from seed can be a fun and inexpensive way to grow such intriguing native species!

Native bulbs can be grown from seed in pots.  Many native bulb
 perennials also make great container plants.

If you live in a cold-winter climate, it’s important to check the USDA Zone before ordering a bulb species.  Many of the loveliest Western natives come from the West Coast.  Not all are hardy in colder climates, so be sure to check. If a species is too  tender, you can usually grow it in a container and overwinter it indoors.  If you’re interested in West Coast species, here are some good sources of bulbs and seeds:

·         Teleos Rare Bulbs (http://telosrarebulbs.com/index.html)

·         Seven Oaks Nursery (https://www.sevenoaksnativenursery.com/)

·         Larner Seeds (https://larnerseeds.com/)

·         Sierra Seed Supply (http://www.sierraseedsupply.com/native_wildflower_seed.html)

·         Seedhunt (http://www.seedhunt.com/california-natives/)

 

It’s also important to check the growth requirements before ordering bulbs. Many native bulbs like to be relatively dry in summer/fall, but there are exceptions. The summer-dry requirement is another reason to consider growing bulbs in containers. Most native bulbs like full sun, although some do well in part-shade. Most grow best with conditions similar to those in their natural habitat.   So, be sure to order species that will thrive under the conditions available in your garden – or grow them in containers.

Bulb growers ship bulbs at the appropriate time for planting.  In our part of Western Colorado, that time is early to mid-October, when soil temperatures are neither too warm or too cold. Of course, sometimes we can be surprised by an early snowfall (above).  So, it’s best to plant soon after the bulbs arrive.

 

Lay bulbs out before planting.

Planting bulbs is easy.  The grower usually provides advice on planting density and planting depth. If not, research the planting requirements on-line.   Lay the bulbs out on the ground where you want to plant them (above).  This allows you to visualize their placement, adding or subtracting bulbs as needed.  

Many native bulbs are relatively small (compared to typical tulip or daffodil bulbs). We find it most convenient to plant native bulbs with a pointed garden trowel (above). Dig a small hole, the appropriate depth.  Place the bulb in the hole, root end down.  Cover with dirt and press down firmly with your hand.  That’s it.

Dig a hole just big enough for bulb. Be sure the bulb sits at proper depth.

Like most seasonally-dormant plants, bulb perennials are best marked at the time of planting.  Otherwise you’ll forget their exact location (trust me).  For guidance on how to mark your soon-to-be-dormant perennials, see: https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2019/10/gardening-tip-mark-your-perennials.html.

Label your bulbs right away (so you know where they are located)

And that’s all there is to it.  Relax with your favorite beverage and dream about your spring garden. If you’ve chosen well, the native bulbs should multiply, providing an ever more impressive display over the years.   For more on growing California (and other) native bulbs, see:   http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/search?q=bulbs.

Native bulbs provide years of enjoyment.

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

Creating Your Colorado-friendly Garden: 7.c – Creating an Irrigation Plan for Mother Nature’s Montrose Garden

 

In August we discussed how to design a garden irrigation plan (https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2020/08/creating-your-colorado-friendly-garden.html).  In our example, we modified an existing irrigation system to make it more water-wise. Our example was typical of a smaller, in-town or suburban garden. It showed how irrigation systems can be used in conjunction with Water Zone gardening to create a more interesting and efficient garden. But perhaps you’re faced with a larger, pre-existing irrigation challenge – more like our irrigation system challenge in Mother Nature’s Montrose Garden.  

As a first step, we studied the existing wet and dry patterns in the garden (above). We were surprised at the variability in soil moisture.  Several dry areas were due to sandier soil that drained very quickly compared to the clay-loam in the rest of the garden. Still other dry areas were due to poor coverage by the existing irrigation system (even after multiple attempts improve coverage).   Several wetter areas were due to the slope of the property (lower to the east) or to shade patterns. 

The soil moisture patterns suggested options for creating a more water-efficient garden.  They also hinted at interesting possibilities hidden in the garden’s existing conditions.  The naturally well-drained areas could be planted with native species requiring very well-drained soils. That was good news, as several are among our favorites!  Conversely, the moister areas could be used for plants that need a little extra water.  

We considered these patterns when designing a Water Zone Plan for the garden, below. Our overall goal was to decrease water use overall, while retaining flexibility for the future.  For more on Water Zone Gardening see: https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2020/07/creating-your-colorado-friendly-garden.html  

As seen in our Water Zone Map, we plan to retain the front yard lawn – at least for the present. That area will require regular water. So will an apron of lawn around the house in the backyard.  But we are in the process of implementing our new garden design; one that will be more interesting and water-wise than the pre-existing landscape (almost all turf lawn). The real question is whether we can adapt the current irrigation system, designed to water lawns, to meet the requirements of our Water Zone Plan!

Station/Zone 1 [blue]; Station 2 [green]; Station 3 [gold]; Station 4 [orange.
Stars indicate approximate position of sprinkler heads

The photo above (not to scale) shows the current irrigation system, as designed and modified over the years.  The plan’s a bit confusing, but stay with us.  The existing system, which irrigates the 1 acre property, consists of 6 stations/zones: Station/Zone 1 (around the house + western front yard); Station 2 (eastern front yard + part of eastern backyard); Station 3 (western backyard); Station 4 (rest of eastern backyard); Station 5 (fills the pond); Station 6 (shade structure located next to shed in NE corner of backyard).  The system consists of a number of pop-up, oscillating (Rainbird-type) sprinkler heads, typical for larger yards in Western Colorado.  

The existing system seems to have been modified as the landscaping progressed.  So, some aspects of the system are perplexing.  But there are several fortunate aspects to the design.  First, the front yard and the area around the house are all on two Stations (1 and 2).  Since we plan to keep these areas in turf grass, they will require more water than other parts of the yard. It’s fortunate that they can all be watered with two irrigation Stations/zones (1 and 2). 

But a quick look at the Water Zone Map (above), as well as personal experience, suggests that a few modifications are needed, even to these Irrigation Stations. For example, several sprinkler heads in Stations 1 and 2 irrigate the backyard, just inside the southeast fence.   These areas require deep, weekly watering (Water Zone 3) rather than regular water.   If unmodified, they will get more water than they need for optimal health.

A quick glance at the Water Zone Map suggests that Stations 3 and 4 will also need to be modified to accommodate different water needs. The large shrubs inside the backyard fence are Water Zone 1-2 (monthly deep water).  This watering schedule will be difficult to accomplish with the existing sprinkler heads. In addition, we need to plan for the future: 1) many of the natives will require less water as they become established; 2) climatic cycles of precipitation and drought may change in the future. 

All of the above suggest the need to plan for more flexibility in the system.   One easy way is to convert some of the sprinkler heads to irrigation risers with spigots (hose bibs).   These will allow us to connect hoses, sprinklers and soaker hoses for  spot-watering, as needed.  Many of the sprinkler heads around the edges of the garden are perfectly suited for this type of conversion.   A modified Irrigation Plan, with the risers/hose bib shown as triangles, is shown below.

Stars indicate sprinkler heads; triangles indicate risers with hose bibs (spigots)

The final issue is to develop an irrigation scheme for the proposed raised-bed vegetable garden.  Fortunately, it will be easy to modify Irrigation Station/Zone 6 to accomplish this. We’ll discuss the details next month, when we consider other aspects of hardscape.  In the meantime, we can take a well-deserved break and admire our final Irrigation Plan (below).

Station/Zone 6 [purple] will irrigate planned vegetable garden

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

Gardening Tip: Naturalizing with Sunflowers and Other Native Wildflowers

Native plants in the Sunflower family naturalize well in gardens.

Many plants in the Sunflower family bloom in summer or fall.  They bring welcome color to the garden and provide food for pollinators and seed-eating birds.  Another nice feature: many of them are easy to grow from seed.  That makes them perfect plants for naturalizing.

The term naturalizing refers to using flowering plants in a way that mimics Mother Nature.  People often speak of ‘naturalizing bulbs’.  But plants that produce viable seeds can also be used to naturalize.  The trick is to spread the seed about the garden in a way that looks natural.  And the best way to do that is to observe how plants group themselves in nature.

In the wild, Sunflowers often cluster in areas with optimal growing conditions.

In the Western U.S., plants in the Sunflower family (Asteraceae) are easy to observe in nature.  In a natural setting, plants often occur in clusters spread across the landscape.  There are often areas between these clusters: places where conditions are poorly suited for the establishment of plants by seeds or runners (rhizomes).

Native Lupines and Phlox form a lovely natural pattern.

The establishment pattern can also indicate wind patterns, since many small seeds are distributed by wind.  This is true of seeds specially adapted to wind distribution (those with feathery ‘parachutes’), as well as seeds that are simply blown along the ground.  And several species of plant are often interspersed, forming interesting patterns (above).

When naturalizing native flowering plants in the garden, you can’t go wrong by following the patterns of nature.  This can be achieved in at least three ways: 1) by letting plants re-seed themselves; 2) by harvesting annual plants (or portions of perennials) and laying them in a desired setting; 3) by collecting seeds and planting them in natural-looking clusters.

When native plants self-seed, the seedlings often cluster near the parent plant.

Letting plants re-seed themselves

This is the easiest method of all.  It also produces a natural-appearing distribution of plants, since the same forces that distribute seeds in the wild are at work in the garden (above).  Self-reseeding works for both annuals and perennials – even plants grown in containers and set out in the garden to re-seed.  The disadvantage of this method is that the process requires time.  To establish plants in several areas of the garden more quickly, you’ll need to give Mother Nature a helping hand.

We call this the 'lazy naturalizer' method. It is a good method
 for naturalizing some plants.

Re-seeding using whole (or portions) of plants

We call this the lazy naturalizer method.  It works for annuals, perennials that need to be culled, or perennials that you cut back after seed is ripe. This method does a good job of producing natural looking plant clusters, in desired areas of the garden.  And it’s often the easiest way to deal with tiny seeds.

Simply wait until seeds are ripe on the plants (pods open, seeds are dry, or birds are starting to eat them).  Harvest entire plants (or cuttings with seed pods/heads) and simply place them on bare ground in the desired spot. The dying plants will look a little untidy during fall (above).  But they provide a protective mulch over winter and will often break down by the following spring. They also protect seeds from seed-scavenging birds (somewhat).

You can stomp on the dried plants - or cut them up into smaller pieces to make them less conspicuous - for fall and winter. In spring, new seedlings will emerge, protected by the natural mulch.  There may be too many seedlings.  You can thin them (or, if you are lazy, just let nature take its course).

Seeds are best dried and stored in paper bags in a cool, dry place.

Collecting and spreading seed

You can also collect the seed and store it until it’s time to plant (more on that next month).  Let seeds dry on the plants.  Harvest the dry seeds and store in paper bags (or glass jars) in a cool, dry place until planting. If seeds grow in papery pods or in a typical sunflower ‘head’, you can harvest entire pods/heads, place them in a paper bag in a cool, dry place (above) and let them fully dry. Seeds can then be more easily separated  and stored.

When planting, remember the lessons of nature. Plant clusters of seeds across the landscape to give a natural appearance. Intersperse seeds of different species to add interest and look more authentic.   And be sure to plant seeds on bare ground or in areas with only a thin inorganic (gravel) mulch.

Success!! A new plant from seed.

We hope you’re inspired to try these suggestions for naturalizing plants by seed. These methods work well for any plants that produce plenty of viable seeds (note: some cultivars to not).  The sunflowers come to mind: sunflowers, goldenrods, cone flowers, asters, rabbit bushes, etc. all naturalize easily.  But wild tobaccos, milkweeds, valerians, four-o’clocks, ranunculus, buckwheats, campanulas and many native grasses, bulbs and wildflowers also naturalize well.

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

 

Gardening Tip: September is Planting Month

Fall is a great time for planting native plants

For many Four Corners gardeners, the question of when to plant trees, shrubs and perennials is an important one.  Some advocate planting in spring, when the ground is damp and before temperatures become too hot. But there are also good reasons for planting in the fall, particularly when establishing native plants.  Here at Mother Nature’s Montrose Garden we’ve tried both planting seasons with good success.  But our major planting has always been in the fall.  Here’s why.

First, the late summer/early fall monsoonal rains often soak the ground, making planting and establishment easy.  Fall rains also give the plants a good start; there’s nothing like a good rain to perk up newly planted specimen.

Another advantage is the fall temperatures.  In general, temperatures are moderately warm and the days are still fairly long. Moderate temperatures are optimal for many of our native plants.  In fact, many native perennials have a second growth spurt in the fall. Air and soil temperatures that are neither too hot nor too cold are just right.  And in many areas, the cold weather is still a month or six weeks away, in mid to late October.  That’s often plenty of time for a new plant to prepare for winter.

There’s a third good reason for planting in fall: local native plants are programmed to grow – and particularly to establish their roots – in the fall.  Once again, the plants are adapted to our rhythms of temperature, soil moisture and humidity.  The optimal fall conditions promote growth in general.  As an added bonus, many plants can actually sense the shorter days and cooler night temperatures. This provides added stimulus to put down a good root system. 

 

Place your plants out to be sure you like the location.

In summary, planting native trees, shrubs and perennials in September works with the patterns of nature to give new plants a good start.  The trick is to plant as early in September as possible – but not when the weather is hot, dry and windy.  That’s why many Four Corners gardeners’ plant in the second or third week of September.

On the topic of planting, here are a few additional tips to increase your success with fall planting of Western native plants:

• Be sure the ground is moist.  If rains have not moistened the ground, give the whole area a good soaking the day before planting.  

Hole size: slightly bigger than pot size

·         Dig a planting hole that is just a little bit wider and deeper than the pot in which the plant is growing (above). The old ‘wisdom’ of digging a big hole doesn’t work as well for native plants.  The sooner a native plant’s roots can grow into the garden soil the better; a smaller hole accomplishes that.

·         Don’t amend the soil in the planting hole. Amendments are not needed, and may actually discourage good root growth.  Just backfill the bottom of the hole with a little loose soil; that’s all you need to do.

·         If the soil surrounding the hole is dry, fill the hole with water and let it drain before planting.  Once again, this will encourage roots to grow out into the surrounding soil.

Hit sides of pot to loosen plant.

Gently remove plant

·         Remove the plant from the pot gently. Hit the sides and bottom of the pot firmly with your hand to dislodge the plant.  Then turn the pot upside down, and let the plant drop into your hand (above)

Loosen roots with your palm or fingers

·         Loosen the roots by rubbing the root ball with the palm of your hand (above).  Just a gentle rub, all over, to loosen pot-bound roots and stimulate them to grow.

·         Check the depth of the hole. The potting soil surrounding the plant should be level with the ground.  Add or remove soil as needed (below) before placing the plant in the hole.

Pot soil should be level with garden soil.

·         Fill in the planting hole with garden soil.  You’ll have plenty left from digging the hole.  Be sure to fill in the holes all around the plant.

·         Press down soil firmly around the plant.  We often also gently step on the soil to be sure that plant roots are in good contact with the soil.  This step is critical for getting roots to grow into the soil and establish a good root system quickly.

·         If no rain is predicted, water in the plant with a good sprinkling with a hose or watering can.

·         Mark the new plant with a colored flag. You may also want to identify the plant with a permanent marker.  For more see: https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2019/10/gardening-tip-mark-your-perennials.html

·         Take a picture of the new plant for your records.

·         Reward yourself with your favorite beverage!

 

For a copy you can print see: https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/garden-tips-planting-native-plants

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

  

Plant of the Month (September) : Hummingbird Trumpet/ California Fuschia – Epilobium canum

 

Hummingbirds are the jewels of Western gardens.  With their brilliant colors and fascinating behavior, they bring hours of enjoyment.  That’s why many of us include ‘hummingbird plants’ in our garden palette. One such plant, which graces fall gardens with its orange flowers, is the Hummingbird trumpet, Epilobium canum.  The scientific name is pronounced epi-LOBE-ee-um  CAN-um.

Epilobium canum is a member of the Onagraceae (Willow-herb) family that includes such garden favorites as the common garden fuschia, evening primroses, Clarkias, Gauras and native Camassonia species.  The genus Epilobium includes the lovely native Fireweeds as well as California Fuschia.   The taxonomy (classification) of the Willow-herb family is still being sorted out – so we may need to update this post in the future.  Long-time native plant enthusiasts still sometimes call Epilobium canum by its older – but more interesting – name: Zauschneria californica.    The name Zauschneria honored the 18th century German botanist Johann Baptista Josef Zauschner.    The name Epilobium refers to the fact that flower and seedpod occur together and the species name canum refers to the ‘hairy’ aspect of this species.

Epilobium canum is a plant of the North American West, growing from Oregon and Wyoming to Baja California and Northern Mexico.   There are currently four recognized sub-species (note: some taxonomists group ssp. garrettii and latifolium together): Epilobium canum ssp. canum (California Fuschia); E. canum ssp. garrettii (Garrett’s Hummingbird Trumpet); E. canum ssp. latifolium (Mountain Hummmingbird Trumpet); E. canum ssp. angustifolium (Narrowleaf Hummingbird Trumpet).

Sub-species canum and angustifolium are endemic to California. Sub-species garrettii grows on dry rocky slopes and chaparral, up to 5500 ft. elevation, in CA, WY, ID, UT and AZ. Sub-species latifolium, including the formerly known Epilobium/ Zauchneria arizonica, is found on rocky slopes and canyons, primarily at the highest elevations, 7000-10000 ft., but sometimes as low as 3500 ft. in CA, AZ, s.w. NM & adjacent Mexico. [1]   

As you might expect, sub-species and cultivars vary in their hardiness, as well as their heat and drought tolerance.  If you live where winter temperatures dip to zero degrees F. (or below), sub-species garrettii (USDA Zones 3–10) and latifolium (Zones 5-9) and some of their cultivars offer your best choices.  As always, be sure to check the USDA Zone for a plant before you purchase.  If you live in a warm-winter area, you can grow most of the sub-species and cultivars, but some may require more water.

In the garden, Hummingbird trumpet adds a spot of bright color at a time when the many summer-blooming species are past their prime.   This species really begins growing in earnest in late spring/summer.  In colder climates, the plant dies back significantly – and is also eaten by hungry critters - in winter.  In mild winter areas, gardeners cut the stems back after blooming to achieve the same ends.    The plants start sending up new stems in spring – and really achieve their full growth in summer. 

Hummingbird trumpet is a spreader, so don’t be surprised if a clump of Epilobium increases in size over the years.  The stems of Epilobium canum are slender, part-woody and wand-like to almost vine-like.  They usually form a mounded clump, but it may fill in around other plants.  The leaves are long and narrow or lance-shaped.  The foliage color varies from a medium green, through pale blue-green to silvery.  In fact, the natural variation in foliage color is the source of several common horticultural cultivars.

Hummingbird trumpet’s flowers are spectacular.  They are 1-2 inches long and up to an inch wide.  They range in color from orange to almost scarlet red and are tubular or funnel-shaped. Some cultivars are even a pale orange! The anthers (male flower parts that produce the pollen) as well as the female parts extend well beyond the fused petals.   When a hummingbird reaches into the flower tube to sip nectar, pollen sticks to its head. The pollen is then deposited on the stigma of subsequent flowers.

The flower color, shape and location of the sexual organs are all good clues that Hummingbird trumpet is pollinated by hummingbirds.   Hummingbirds are attracted like a magnet to these glorious flowers.   Locate Epilobium near a seating area and you can observe hummingbirds from a distance of only a few feet!   It’s fun to watch hummingbirds chase others from ‘their’ flowers!

Epilobium canum is easy to grow in western gardens.  It can take just about any local soil – even those with pH around 8.0.   Depending on the sub-species/cultivar it does well in full sun or part-shade.  In full sun the form of the straight species will often be a 2-3 ft. mound; in part-shade the stems create a low ground-cover (see below).   As with common garden fuschias, you can pinch the tips of growing stems to form a fuller plant.

Epilobium canum adapts well to garden conditions.  Species from lower elevations are quite drought tolerant, but look better with infrequent summer water (Water Zone 2; see https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2020/07/creating-your-colorado-friendly-garden.html). Sub-species from higher elevations do best with occasional summer water (Water Zone 3).    Plants can take winter flooding, which is useful for those of us who garden in clay soils.   And in our experience, Epilobium is quite disease- and pest-free.

Yearly maintenance is minimal.  In warm winter areas, cut the branches back to 1-2 inches after flowering to keep the plant looking tidy and healthy. In colder areas, leave the branches on over winter, then cut back in spring.  You can use your cuttings to produce new plants if desired.   You can also let the plants naturalize by seed.  The seeds have fluffy wings (see above) that float on the wind and re-seed throughout the garden.   The natural look is lovely – but the choice is yours.

Epilobium canum can be used in many ways in the garden. It makes a nice fall accent plant in mixed water-wise beds.   We like it mixed with other native shrubs, where it fills in the bare spaces over time.   Hummingbird trumpet can be used as a groundcover – alone or with other native groundcover plants. It will even do spectacularly in a large container.  It’s a perfect accent along walkways or bordering a seating area.  It naturalizes in favorable spots throughout the garden if you let it go to seed.

There are several horticultural cultivars (types selected for garden use) that are readily available at native plant nurseries and sales. In cold-winter areas, try cultivars of subspecies latifolium and garrettii.

Epilobium canum ssp. latifolium   

‘Northfork Coral’ – USDA Zones 5-10, with coral colored flowers. 1-2 ft tall, 2-3 ft wide.

‘Woody's Peach Surprise’ – USDA Zones 5-9. Low-growing form: 6-8” tall by 18” wide. Has unique, pale peach flowers.

Epilobium (Zauchneria) canum [var. arizonica] 'Sky Island Orange' – USDA Zones 5-8. Grows 2-3 ft tall & wide. Flowers red-orange. Wide drought tolerance (10-30” water per year).

Epilobium canum ssp. garrettii

'Orange Carpet' – Hardy (from Idaho; USDA Zones 5-9). Lower-growing  4 to 12 inches high, 2-4 feet wide. Does best with afternoon shade in hot gardens

Another choice for hot summers is Epilobium ‘Everett’s Choice’, from the California Bay Area, which can take the heat. One of the lowest growing of the Epilobiums (3 to 6 inches high, 3 foot spread or more). It’s very drought and deer resistant, and more cold resistant than most California forms (hardy to -10°F).

Because Hummingbird trumpet is a popular garden plant, new cultivars are being introduced all the time.  We suggest that you purchase cultivars in the fall, when you can observe the flowers and foliage colors at their best.

We hope you’ve been inspired by this lovely Western native plant. Most gardens have a spot for one or more of these charming plants.  You’ll love the bright accent in your late summer/fall garden.  It’s a real treasure - unless you detest the color orange!

For a gardening information sheet see: https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-epilobium-canum-238401468

For more pictures of this plant see: https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/epilobium-canum-garden-photos

For plant information sheets on other native plants see:

 

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1.       https://plants.usda.gov/plantguide/pdf/pg_epca3.pdf

 

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com