This
month and next we discuss hardscape – the non-living elements of the garden
design. If you’re just joining the ‘Creating Your Colorado-friendly Garden’
series, we suggest you start at the beginning: https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/p/creating-your-colorado-friendly-garden.html
The monthly activities will help you
design an attractive, functional, sustainable and water-wise garden.
Technically,
the water management system is included in the hardscape plan. Because the ‘Colorado-friendly Garden’ emphasizes
water sustainability, we considered the management of rainwater (July 2020) and
irrigation water (August & October 2020) separately. You might want to review these posts before
continuing.
Introduction
‘Hardscape’
includes all the non-plant parts of the garden design, from walls/fences,
walkways and seating areas to water features and garden art. Hardscape elements are often added to a
garden over time, without an over-arching plan guiding their selection. Designing a new garden – or remaking an old
one – provides an opportunity to rethink the hardscape. And that can have important implications for
the overall appearance and functionality of the garden.
This
month and next we focus on the functional aspects of hardscape. But it’s nearly impossible to divorce
functionality from aesthetics. As you
consider hardscape options, look at examples in your neighborhood, in books and
on the internet. Visit the local
building supply store and nursery to see what options are available. Take
pictures and notes about hardscape solutions you like. These will be invaluable when you finalize
the hardscape plans next year.
You’ll
notice that some materials and items appear formal while others have an informal
or casual appearance. Garden designs run
the gamut from extremely formal to very informal; choosing the right hardscape depends
in part on knowing where your garden falls along the continuum. Preference for
formal or informal style is highly personal. If you haven’t determined your family’s
preference yet, now would be a good time to do so: https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2020/06/creating-your-colorado-friendly-garden.html.
This
month we’ll just develop a rough map of hardscape features and their
approximate locations in the garden. Next
month we’ll develop a final map and hardscape plan. Don’t be surprised if it takes you several
months to complete your hardscape plan.
Hardscape encompasses a number of elements – and there are functional
and aesthetic considerations for each.
Take as long as you need to develop a plan that ‘feels right’. Remember,
you are designing the framework for your garden and that takes time.
This month’s
exercise will involve a lot of thought and research. So, get out your Garden
Notebook, several clean copies of your site map and a pencil to sketch in possible
locations and make notations.
Fences, Walls, Screens and Gates
Homes
in Western Colorado are located in many types of settings. Close neighbors, pets and less-than-optimal
views mean that many local gardens use walls, fences, screens and hedges to
keep living things in/out – or block objectionable views. Your yard may already have a perimeter wall or
fence (located on/near the boundary between two properties). If so, you may need only to inspect and complete
necessary repairs.
If
you don’t have a perimeter wall/fence – or if you detest the current one –
first determine whether you need one at all. Perhaps your front yard no longer needs to be
fenced for children or pets; or an aged hedge is past being functional or
attractive. If so, mark them for
removal. If a fence/wall is required, several
functional issues should be considered:
·
How
strong/durable will it need to be?
·
How
long will it need to last? Do you need a permanent fence, or just a
temporary screen until shrubbery/hedge has grown to size?
·
Does
it need to be solid or could it allow for air circulation (for example a hedge, lattice-work or
other open-work fence)?
·
What
municipal or county codes
regulate height, setbacks and construction?
·
How
much do you want to spend
on the project?
·
What
type of materials work best with your house design? Your neighborhood?
· Do you want to install it yourself or have it installed professionally?
·
How
much maintenance will it require? Costs?
·
Do
you want your fence/wall to be hardscape only, a planted hedge or some combination (shrubs in front of a fence or vines
on a lattice fence)
·
Do
you want your fence/wall to stand out or blend into the distance?
We’ll discuss how you can accomplish either goal, by using color, in
next month’s installment.
In
addition to the garden perimeter, walls/fences and hedges are useful as screens
to block unsightly views. For example, a
screen of shrubs might be placed to hide views of a garden shed, trash barrels
or the side of a neighbor’s garage.
Hedges
and screens can also be used to create outdoor rooms or to guide one through
the garden. As we’ll learn next year, breaking
a yard up into smaller ‘rooms’ can make even a small garden appear larger. Look at your “Physical Features Map’ and ‘Use
Areas Map’. Are there areas that would
benefit from a screen/hedge? If so,
pencil them in.
Shown
above are the final ‘Use Area/Bubble’ Map and the ‘Physical Features’ Maps for
112 Willow Street, the example we’ve used in previous postings in this series. The
yard has a 5 ft. tall perimeter fence in the backyard – in good condition – and
2 ft. tall block walls on either side of the front yard. The homeowner is happy with these and chooses
to retain them.
Because
the ‘Maintenance’ and ‘Quiet Meditation’ areas are located near the front yard,
the homeowners consider adding short fence/gates between the house/garage and
the front walls for privacy and access.
They pencil them in, with a note to think about them over the next
month.
Sheds, Storage Buildings and
Containers
Many
gardens require outdoor storage. Here
are some things you’ll want to consider when choosing a shed/storage building:
- How big will it need to be?
If you have the space, consider going a little bit larger than
current needs require
- How tall? Will it need
to contain long-handled garden tools? Other tall equipment like umbrellas,
ladders, etc.)?
- What materials should it be made of? Wood looks nice but will need painting;
metal is durable (in our climate); sturdy plastic sheds are inexpensive
and low maintenance.
- Location: should be handy, but not where it’s an eyesore or
impedes traffic flow
- Will it be custom-built or pre-fabricated/ready-to-assemble?
- Will you build/assemble it or will you hire a professional?
- Cost constraints?
The
gardeners at 112 Willow St. are scaling back, replacing an old 8 x 10 ft metal
shed with something smaller. They’ve
cleaned out the old shed, but still need
space for a reel mower (to cut the new lawn) long-handled garden tools
(rakes/shovels, etc.), potting supplies (pots; soil), irrigation supplies,
fertilizers, limited pesticides and the patio seat cushions (during the rainy
season).
Placement
of the storage shed(s) is easy – it belongs in the Maintenance Area. The best place appears to be along the back
of the garage. This area can
accommodate a shed(s) up to 10 ft long (total), as wide as 3 ft and as tall as
needed. The gardeners do need to
consider where the trash cans will go in the Maintenance Area. There are three (garbage, recyclables and
green waste – each 2.5 ft x 2.5 ft) and they may impact how much space is
available for the shed(s).
After
careful consideration, the homeowners realize that the green waste and trash
containers could be stored along the perimeter wall near the garden; this would
be handy for daily use and for trash day.
The recycle container could fit next to the new shed(s), leaving space
for a 6-7 ft x 3 ft shed. The gardeners
also realize that the patio seat cushions might be stored on the patio –
perhaps in a low storage container that doubles as a table. They pencil in the rough location of
containers and shed(s).
The
storage sheds won’t need to be particularly attractive; for the most part
they’re hidden from view. The homeowners
will need to decide how much they
want to spend, the size needed and whether they want a
pre-fab/ready-to-assemble or not. They
explore the possibilities on-line and at the local building supply stores.
Patios and Seating Areas
In
the Southwestern U.S. we’re fortunate to be able to ‘live outdoors’ much of the
year. As the climate becomes hotter,
shady outdoor living areas will become more important. And if our winters are
cold, we’ll need to plan for that as well.
112
Willow Street is fortunate to have a screened patio with a roof and concrete
floor. It’s shaded in summer and
protected from rain and snow. The family
uses it for sitting, playing, parties and outdoor dining. They won’t need to do anything to the patio.
If
you don’t have a patio/seating area, you may want to build or create one. In fact, it may already appear on your
‘Functional Area/Bubble’ map. Here are
some things to consider:
- What activities do you want to do there?
Placement, construction and furnishings will be different for a
routinely-used al fresco dining area
vs. an area used for occasional seating.
- What is the most convenient placement?
This is particularly important for regularly used areas. An outdoor dining/entertaining area
should be near the kitchen and living room if possible. A sauna/hot tub area might be located
off the master bedroom or bath.
- Will you need outdoor cooking facilities? electricity? heaters for winter? access to drinking or irrigation water?
- How will you provide shade?
A roof, ramada, retractable awning or a
well-placed tree are all possibilities. More attractive shade options are
coming on the market all the time. You can see an number of these on the
internet. Remember, it’s going to
be hotter in the future – shade will be a must!
- How flat and firm must the surface be?
Dining areas and those with heavy foot travel usually require a
hard, flat surface; other areas are fine with grass, crushed rock,
decomposed granite or even mulch.
The
new garden at 112 Willow St. has two informal seating areas: one designated the
‘Shady Seating Area’ under the tree and other in the ‘Quiet/Meditation’
area. Neither of these are high foot
travel areas; mulch, a low walk-on ground cover or crushed rock could be used
in these places. Both areas are already shady
– that was part of the logic in locating them where they are. The homeowners will think about the type of
seating appropriate for each area and explore options on-line and at local public
gardens.
Walkways, Paths and Driveways
Once
the big hardscape elements (above) are located, the next step is planning the
walkways, paths and driveways. Most homes
already have a driveway, so you’ll likely not be changing its location. However, you may want to consider making it
more permeable.
Walkways
and paths are often updated when a garden is re-designed. Whether you’re starting new or re-modeling an
established garden, consider motor and foot traffic carefully. In most small yards, motor vehicle traffic is
confined to the driveway. However,
families with boats or other parked vehicles – or jobs/hobbies needing
vehicular access – require careful planning.
Foot
traffic also requires thoughtful deliberation.
Walkways in the wrong place, areas that are inaccessible and paths
poorly constructed are not just annoying, they can be dangerous! Look closely at your hardscape map. What areas will receive the most foot
traffic? What is the easiest route? Will you need to wheel garden equipment or
trash cans from one place to another?
Will you need occasional access into planted areas for garden
maintenance? Do you want to direct foot
traffic away from delicate plants or to a water feature or statue?
We
suggest getting out in the garden and walking the possible pathways. You can even locate major hardscape areas
with string to make the exercise more real.
Remember, if you’re converting lawn areas to something planted, you’ll now
need to provide access across those areas. We sometimes forget how often we walk across
our lawns!
Municipal
or county codes usually cover the size and construction of major walkways, such
as the walkway to the front door. They
may also specify requirements for other walkways and paths. Neighborhood covenants sometimes also limit
the materials and colors permissible. Be
sure that you – or your contractor – know and follow the regulations.
Our
sister blog has an article on ‘Harvesting Rain: Permeable Paths, Patios and
Driveways’ (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/06/harvesting-rain-permeable-paths-patios.html
). You might want to read it before you
continue.
The
garden at 112 Willow St. won’t need much in the way of new pathways. The vegetable garden, utility area and
driveway area will be covered in either mulch (vegetable garden) or crushed
rock. The crushed rock is a better
choice than gravel for the Utility Area and driveway. It can be compacted to provide a hard level
surface for walking and rolling trash bins across. The ‘New Lawn’ provides access to most of the
backyard and the ‘Butterfly Garden’ is a narrow bed that can be accessed
easily.
The
area leading to the ‘Quiet/meditation Area’ will be planted, so some sort of
pathway is needed. This is will not be a
highly traveled path, but the area may be damp in winter. The gardeners plan to use large (2 or 2 ½ ft)
pavers to create a semi-formal path.
They will visit their building or landscape supply store to see what
options are available.
And
that’s enough to think about for this month. Jot down your thoughts and ideas
in your Garden Notebook. Take a walk
around your neighborhood and take photos of hardscape ideas you like. Look on the internet, in magazines; and/or
check out a book on hardscape from your local library. Visit a building supply
store for inspiration. Make tentative sketches
of hardscape features and pencil n possible locations on a clean copy of your
site map. Come back in a few days and
see if other possibilities come to mind.
We welcome your comments (below). You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com
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