Happy Thanksgiving from the Garden

 

2020 has been challenging. Even in the United States, many families have found it hard to put food on the table.  This year, we give special thanks to the plants that provided food for us, our neighbors and the local food bank. 

In trying times, it’s particularly important to give thanks for our blessings.  And more than ever, this is a time to share those blessings with others. 

It’s as a community that we get through the challenges and emerge stronger, more resilient and caring.    So, thanks to the food plants – and to you, our readers.   Keep on giving and know there’s a light of hope on the horizon.

Creating Your Colorado-friendly Garden: 8a – Planning Pathways and Built Hardscape

 

This month and next we discuss hardscape – the non-living elements of the garden design. If you’re just joining the ‘Creating Your Colorado-friendly Garden’ series, we suggest you start at the beginning: https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/p/creating-your-colorado-friendly-garden.html  The monthly activities will help you design an attractive, functional, sustainable and water-wise garden.

Technically, the water management system is included in the hardscape plan.  Because the ‘Colorado-friendly Garden’ emphasizes water sustainability, we considered the management of rainwater (July 2020) and irrigation water (August & October 2020) separately.  You might want to review these posts before continuing.

 

Introduction

‘Hardscape’ includes all the non-plant parts of the garden design, from walls/fences, walkways and seating areas to water features and garden art.  Hardscape elements are often added to a garden over time, without an over-arching plan guiding their selection.  Designing a new garden – or remaking an old one – provides an opportunity to rethink the hardscape.  And that can have important implications for the overall appearance and functionality of the garden.

This month and next we focus on the functional aspects of hardscape.  But it’s nearly impossible to divorce functionality from aesthetics.  As you consider hardscape options, look at examples in your neighborhood, in books and on the internet.  Visit the local building supply store and nursery to see what options are available.   Take pictures and notes about hardscape solutions you like.  These will be invaluable when you finalize the hardscape plans next year.

You’ll notice that some materials and items appear formal while others have an informal or casual appearance.  Garden designs run the gamut from extremely formal to very informal; choosing the right hardscape depends in part on knowing where your garden falls along the continuum. Preference for formal or informal style is highly personal.  If you haven’t determined your family’s preference yet, now would be a good time to do so: https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2020/06/creating-your-colorado-friendly-garden.html.

This month we’ll just develop a rough map of hardscape features and their approximate locations in the garden.  Next month we’ll develop a final map and hardscape plan.  Don’t be surprised if it takes you several months to complete your hardscape plan.  Hardscape encompasses a number of elements – and there are functional and aesthetic considerations for each.  Take as long as you need to develop a plan that ‘feels right’. Remember, you are designing the framework for your garden and that takes time.   

This month’s exercise will involve a lot of thought and research.  So, get out your Garden Notebook, several clean copies of your site map and a pencil to sketch in possible locations and make notations.  

Fences, Walls, Screens and Gates

Homes in Western Colorado are located in many types of settings.  Close neighbors, pets and less-than-optimal views mean that many local gardens use walls, fences, screens and hedges to keep living things in/out – or block objectionable views.  Your yard may already have a perimeter wall or fence (located on/near the boundary between two properties).  If so, you may need only to inspect and complete necessary repairs.

If you don’t have a perimeter wall/fence – or if you detest the current one – first determine whether you need one at all.  Perhaps your front yard no longer needs to be fenced for children or pets; or an aged hedge is past being functional or attractive.  If so, mark them for removal.   If a fence/wall is required, several functional issues should be considered:

·         How strong/durable will it need to be?

·         How long will it need to last?   Do you need a permanent fence, or just a temporary screen until shrubbery/hedge has grown to size?

·         Does it need to be solid or could it allow for air circulation (for example a hedge, lattice-work or other open-work fence)?

·         What municipal or county codes regulate height, setbacks and construction?

·         How much do you want to spend on the project?

·         What type of materials work best with your house design?  Your neighborhood?

·         Do you want to install it yourself or have it installed professionally? 

·         How much maintenance will it require?  Costs?

·         Do you want your fence/wall to be hardscape only,   a planted hedge or some combination (shrubs in front of a fence or vines on a lattice fence)

·         Do you want your fence/wall to stand out or blend into the distance?    We’ll discuss how you can accomplish either goal, by using color, in next month’s installment.

In addition to the garden perimeter, walls/fences and hedges are useful as screens to block unsightly views.  For example, a screen of shrubs might be placed to hide views of a garden shed, trash barrels or the side of a neighbor’s garage.  

Hedges and screens can also be used to create outdoor rooms or to guide one through the garden.  As we’ll learn next year, breaking a yard up into smaller ‘rooms’ can make even a small garden appear larger.  Look at your “Physical Features Map’ and ‘Use Areas Map’.   Are there areas that would benefit from a screen/hedge?    If so, pencil them in.

Shown above are the final ‘Use Area/Bubble’ Map and the ‘Physical Features’ Maps for 112 Willow Street, the example we’ve used in previous postings in this series.   The yard has a 5 ft. tall perimeter fence in the backyard – in good condition – and 2 ft. tall block walls on either side of the front yard.  The homeowner is happy with these and chooses to retain them.

Because the ‘Maintenance’ and ‘Quiet Meditation’ areas are located near the front yard, the homeowners consider adding short fence/gates between the house/garage and the front walls for privacy and access.   They pencil them in, with a note to think about them over the next month.

Sheds, Storage Buildings and Containers

Many gardens require outdoor storage.  Here are some things you’ll want to consider when choosing a shed/storage building:

• How big will it need to be?  If you have the space, consider going a little bit larger than current needs require
• How tall?  Will it need to contain long-handled garden tools? Other tall equipment like umbrellas, ladders, etc.)?
• What materials should it be made of?  Wood looks nice but will need painting; metal is durable (in our climate); sturdy plastic sheds are inexpensive and low maintenance.
• Location: should be handy, but not where it’s an eyesore or impedes traffic flow
• Will it be custom-built or pre-fabricated/ready-to-assemble?
• Will you build/assemble it or will you hire a professional?
• Cost constraints?

 

The gardeners at 112 Willow St. are scaling back, replacing an old 8 x 10 ft metal shed with something smaller.  They’ve cleaned out the old shed, but  still need space for a reel mower (to cut the new lawn) long-handled garden tools (rakes/shovels, etc.), potting supplies (pots; soil), irrigation supplies, fertilizers, limited pesticides and the patio seat cushions (during the rainy season). 

Placement of the storage shed(s) is easy – it belongs in the Maintenance Area.  The best place appears to be along the back of the garage.   This area can accommodate a shed(s) up to 10 ft long (total), as wide as 3 ft and as tall as needed.  The gardeners do need to consider where the trash cans will go in the Maintenance Area.  There are three (garbage, recyclables and green waste – each 2.5 ft x 2.5 ft) and they may impact how much space is available for the shed(s).

After careful consideration, the homeowners realize that the green waste and trash containers could be stored along the perimeter wall near the garden; this would be handy for daily use and for trash day.  The recycle container could fit next to the new shed(s), leaving space for a 6-7 ft x 3 ft shed.  The gardeners also realize that the patio seat cushions might be stored on the patio – perhaps in a low storage container that doubles as a table.    They pencil in the rough location of containers and shed(s).

The storage sheds won’t need to be particularly attractive; for the most part they’re hidden from view.  The homeowners will need to decide how much they want to spend, the size needed and whether they want a pre-fab/ready-to-assemble or not.   They explore the possibilities on-line and at the local building supply stores.

 

Patios and Seating Areas

In the Southwestern U.S. we’re fortunate to be able to ‘live outdoors’ much of the year.  As the climate becomes hotter, shady outdoor living areas will become more important. And if our winters are cold, we’ll need to plan for that as well.  

112 Willow Street is fortunate to have a screened patio with a roof and concrete floor.  It’s shaded in summer and protected from rain and snow.  The family uses it for sitting, playing, parties and outdoor dining.  They won’t need to do anything to the patio.

If you don’t have a patio/seating area, you may want to build or create one.  In fact, it may already appear on your ‘Functional Area/Bubble’ map.   Here are some things to consider:

• What activities do you want to do there?  Placement, construction and furnishings will be different for a routinely-used al fresco dining area vs. an area used for occasional seating.
• What is the most convenient placement?  This is particularly important for regularly used areas.  An outdoor dining/entertaining area should be near the kitchen and living room if possible.  A sauna/hot tub area might be located off the master bedroom or bath.
• Will you need outdoor cooking facilities? electricity?  heaters for winter?  access to drinking or irrigation water?
• How will you provide shade?  A roof, ramada, retractable awning or a well-placed tree are all possibilities. More attractive shade options are coming on the market all the time. You can see an number of these on the internet.  Remember, it’s going to be hotter in the future – shade will be a must!
• How flat and firm must the surface be?   Dining areas and those with heavy foot travel usually require a hard, flat surface; other areas are fine with grass, crushed rock, decomposed granite or even mulch.

The new garden at 112 Willow St. has two informal seating areas: one designated the ‘Shady Seating Area’ under the tree and other in the ‘Quiet/Meditation’ area.  Neither of these are high foot travel areas; mulch, a low walk-on ground cover or crushed rock could be used in these places.  Both areas are already shady – that was part of the logic in locating them where they are.  The homeowners will think about the type of seating appropriate for each area and explore options on-line and at local public gardens.

Walkways, Paths and Driveways

Once the big hardscape elements (above) are located, the next step is planning the walkways, paths and driveways.  Most homes already have a driveway, so you’ll likely not be changing its location.  However, you may want to consider making it more permeable.

Walkways and paths are often updated when a garden is re-designed.  Whether you’re starting new or re-modeling an established garden, consider motor and foot traffic carefully.  In most small yards, motor vehicle traffic is confined to the driveway.  However, families with boats or other parked vehicles – or jobs/hobbies needing vehicular access – require careful planning. 

Foot traffic also requires thoughtful deliberation.   Walkways in the wrong place, areas that are inaccessible and paths poorly constructed are not just annoying, they can be dangerous!   Look closely at your hardscape map.  What areas will receive the most foot traffic?  What is the easiest route?  Will you need to wheel garden equipment or trash cans from one place to another?  Will you need occasional access into planted areas for garden maintenance?   Do you want to direct foot traffic away from delicate plants or to a water feature or statue?

We suggest getting out in the garden and walking the possible pathways.  You can even locate major hardscape areas with string to make the exercise more real.  Remember, if you’re converting lawn areas to something planted, you’ll now need to provide access across those areas.  We sometimes forget how often we walk across our lawns!

Municipal or county codes usually cover the size and construction of major walkways, such as the walkway to the front door.  They may also specify requirements for other walkways and paths.  Neighborhood covenants sometimes also limit the materials and colors permissible.  Be sure that you – or your contractor – know and follow the regulations.

Our sister blog has an article on ‘Harvesting Rain: Permeable Paths, Patios and Driveways’ (http://mother-natures-backyard.blogspot.com/2013/06/harvesting-rain-permeable-paths-patios.html ).   You might want to read it before you continue.

The garden at 112 Willow St. won’t need much in the way of new pathways.  The vegetable garden, utility area and driveway area will be covered in either mulch (vegetable garden) or crushed rock.  The crushed rock is a better choice than gravel for the Utility Area and driveway.  It can be compacted to provide a hard level surface for walking and rolling trash bins across.   The ‘New Lawn’ provides access to most of the backyard and the ‘Butterfly Garden’ is a narrow bed that can be accessed easily.

The area leading to the ‘Quiet/meditation Area’ will be planted, so some sort of pathway is needed.  This is will not be a highly traveled path, but the area may be damp in winter.  The gardeners plan to use large (2 or 2 ½ ft) pavers to create a semi-formal path.  They will visit their building or landscape supply store to see what options are available.

And that’s enough to think about for this month. Jot down your thoughts and ideas in your Garden Notebook.  Take a walk around your neighborhood and take photos of hardscape ideas you like.  Look on the internet, in magazines; and/or check out a book on hardscape from your local library. Visit a building supply store for inspiration.  Make tentative sketches of hardscape features and pencil n possible locations on a clean copy of your site map.  Come back in a few days and see if other possibilities come to mind.

 _______________________________________

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

 

Plant of the Month (November) : Blue Grama/Eyelash grass – Bouteloua gracilis

 

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis) looks attractive, even in fall and winter

We got 10 inches of snow in Mother Nature’s Montrose Garden the third week in October.  While a little snow and cold is not uncommon, this was a lot of snow for this early.  It got us thinking about plants that add winter interest to the garden – even when covered in snow.  And that brings us to our plant of the month: Blue Grama, Bouteloua gracilis. The scientific name is pronounced boo-te-LOO-uh  GRASS-il-is.  

As sees in the photograph, Blue Grama is in the Grass Family (Poaceae).  The Boutelouas or Grama grasses are native to the Americas, with the greatest diversity in the Southwestern U.S. and Mesoamerica. While more commonly named  Bouteloua gracilis, Blue grama is sometimes classified as Chondrosum gracile. [1] Chondrosum is closely related to Bouteloua and some taxonomists group all or most under Bouteloua.  The genus is named after the Spanish horticulturalist  Claudio Bouteloua (1774-1842). [2]

There are about 50 species of Grama, with at least seven (Bouteloua curtipendula, B. dactyloides, B. eriopoda, B. gracilis, B. hirsuta and Chondrosum simplex/ Bouteloua simplex, C. barbatum/Bouteloua barbata) native to Colorado. [3] Bouteloua gracilis, which has the widest statewide distribution, is the Colorado State Grass.

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): San Miguel county, CO

In fact, Blue grama has the widest distribution of all the grama grasses. Its range extends as far north as Alberta, Canada and as far south as Mexico. It is present in most of the Midwestern United States, extending east to Missouri and Texas, and as far west as Southern California. [4] In Colorado, it is common on both the Western Slope and Front Range.  And it occurs in a number of plant communities throughout its range, including grasslands, shrublands, woodlands and forests.

Blue grama is a warm season perennial grass, which means that its optimum growth is at temperatures between 80 and 95°F (27 to 35°C).  That being said, growth of Blue grama slows during very hot, dry conditions. In Mother Nature’s Montrose Garden, it grows most actively in early summer and again in fall. Plants are dormant in winter, with leaves turning purple, then tan, with autumn frosts.

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): plant

Bouteloua gracilis grows 12-18 inches tall and wide, making it one of the shorter native grasses.  It is finely textured, with blades at most 6 inches long and less than ½ inch wide (< 15 cm long, < 2 mm wide) and drooping. Leaf color is medium green to blue-green.  The overall impression is of a compact, neat-looking bunch grass.  That is probably one reason that it has been embraced by the horticultural community.

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): reprduction

Blue grama spreads slowly by seed and sometimes by tillering (vegetative reproduction).  There is some debate as to why some Bouteloua gracilis spread vegetatively, while others appear to not do so.  Part may be due to genetic variability. But another likely factor is differences in growing conditions.  Having observed this plant in both the wild and the garden, we suspect that soil moisture plays a role.  The species appears to spread very slowly in dry, mid-elevation sites in Western Colorado.  In the garden, Blue grama has spread more quickly (see above photo).

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): in flower

Like all grasses, Bouteloua gracilis is wind pollinated and expends little energy on colorful flowers. That being said, Blue grama is one of the prettier grasses when in flower. The flowers grow on a stalk that extends above the leaves, to about 20 inches tall. The flowers themselves – and then the seeds – are suspended horizontally, somewhat like a miniature brush (below). The fresh flowers are reddish-purple; they mature to light tan color.  Seeds are dispersed by wind, water, animals and by ‘hitch hiking’ on an animal’s fur.

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): showy flowers

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): seeds

As expected from its wide range, Bouteloua gracilis succeeds in a range of climates and soil conditions. It grows in USDA Zones 3-10, making it a good choice for both colder and warmer parts of the West.  It needs a well-drained soil, but tolerates soils on both the sandy or clay ends of the spectrum – even rocky soils. It tolerates soils with pH from 6.0 to 8.0 – possibly even higher.  It does well in full sun to part-shade, and needs only an occasional light dose of fertilizer – if that. 

Bouteloua gracilis is well suited for the dry West. It has a complex root system that includes shallow, fibrous roots and deep roots (to about 6 ½ ft).  This combination of shallow and deep roots is common in native plants subjected to extremes of soil moisture. The shallow roots allow plants to extract seasonal soil moisture, while the deep roots make the plants more drought tolerant.

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): in Mother Nature's
 Montrose Garden

While Blue grama is drought tolerant, it really looks best with occasional water during prolonged periods of hot, dry weather.  In many Western gardens, plants will thrive on occasional deep summer watering – perhaps every other week or monthly, depending on the soil type.  Since Blue grama has only moderate salt tolerance it is not a good choice for gardens using recycled water, which tends to have high salt concentrations.   It also does poorly in areas with a high water table.

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): seedlings

Blue grama is often sold as a water-wise lawn substitute, often in combination with the native Buffalo grass, Bouteloua dactyloides.  For this use, Blue grama is either seeded during warm weather or planted as plugs.  Getting this grass established from seed can be a challenge, particularly in areas with dry, windy Springs. Like all grasses, keeping the ground and seedlings/young plants moist is a must during establishment. For more on planting native grass lawns, see reference 5.

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): ground cover around trees

Blue grama lawns can be mowed occasionally once well-established.  But the grass is so attractive that many gardeners choose not to.  This species makes a particularly showy addition to prairie or meadow plantings, looking best when planted in masses or swathes.  It does well as a ground-cover between trees and native shrubs (above).  Its small size makes it a good choice for rock gardens and other small-scale plantings. It can even be grown as an accent plant in containers. We also like it as an edging plant around seating areas (below).

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): nice around seating area

Several attractive and useful cultivars are available as either seed or plants.  ‘Alma’ is a robust, upright plant with good seedling vigor. ‘Hachita’ is a vigorous New Mexico variety chosen for its ability to fill in quickly and make a dense turf. [6]   These two are available as seed from your local ag extension office or commercial growers.   Native plant nurseries may also have ‘Hachita’ as plants or plugs.

Bouteloua gracilis ‘Lovington’, also from New Mexico, is uniform in its growth, making it a good choice for lawns. It is available from commercial seed companies. ‘Blond Ambition’, available as plants from a growing number of sources, is a larger, more showy cultivar with light green flowers that turn to tan.  This is a lovely plant, even when the snows fly, and is gaining popularity as an ornamental ‘accent’ grass in Western gardens (below).

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis) 'Blond Ambition'

We like Blue grama because it’s a grass native to Western Colorado. It just looks ‘right’ in local gardens and it has a long history of use as a forage crop and beyond. Seeds of the species were used as food where ever it grew. Native peoples have used the stems to make combs, brushes and brooms; some cultures have used the stems in basketry.  And the species is used ceremonially by the Navajo. [7]

So, if you are looking for a grass that’s attractive looking, tough as nails and has a nice history, Blue grama may be the right choice for your garden. Whether you use it as a native lawn, in a natural prairie or as a showy accent, you can’t go wrong with Bouteloua gracilis or its cultivars.

Blue Grama (Bouteloua gracilis): notrhering prettier than sunlight through grasses

 

For a gardening information sheet see: https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/gardening-sheet-bouteloua-gracilis

For more pictures of this plant see: https://www.slideshare.net/cvadheim/bouteloua-gracilis-web-show-239151795

For plant information sheets on other native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html

_______

1.   Weber WA and Wittmann, RC. Colorado Flora – Western Slope: A Field Guide to the Vascular Plants (4^th ed). Boulder CO, University Press of Colorado, 2012.

2.   http://wisplants.uwsp.edu/scripts/detail.asp?SpCode=BOUGRA

3.   Ackerfield, J: Flora of Colorado. Ft. Worth, TX, BRIT Press, 2015.

4.   Anderson, Michelle D. 2003. Bouteloua gracilis. In: Fire Effects Information System, [Online]. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Research Station, Fire Sciences Laboratory (Producer).  http://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/graminoid/bougra/all.html

5.   https://www.highcountrygardens.com/gardening/planting-blue-grama-grass-seed-bouteloua-gracilis

6.   https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_PLANTMATERIALS/publications/nmpmcrb10444.pdf

7.   http://herb.umd.umich.edu/herb/search.pl?searchstring=Bouteloua+gracilis

 

 ________________________________________

 

We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com