Colorado Gourmet: Easy Desserts Using Fruit Purees

Individual cobblers using fruit puree are ready to bake.

Last month we discussed making fruit purees (https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2019/11/colorado-gourmet-making-fruit-purees.html). Fruit purees are an easy way to preserve summer’s bounty.  And they are a handy pantry staple, particularly during busy times like December.  We’d like to share a few easy desert ideas using fruit purees.

The easiest way to utilize fruit purees is to use them to top a bowl of ice cream or a slice of cake.  They make either look dressier, and their flavor adds a needed zing to an otherwise bland dessert.

But maybe you need something that’s a little more refined (but still easy to make). Here are three dessert ideas for you to try.

Holiday cheesecake

Top prepared, chilled cheesecake (home-made or store bought) with a ¼ inch layer of fruit puree.  Refrigerate to chill topping before serving.

  

The puree adds a layer of complexity to plain cheesecake.  The colors make the dessert more festive, particularly if red colored purees are used.  And the flavor of fruit purees adds just the right sweet-tart note to complement the cheesecake.

Holiday Parfaits  

Here’s another easy idea that makes a festive dessert for the holiday season.

Ingredients

Vanilla pudding (prepared and cooled) or vanilla yoghurt (your choice)

1 pint preserved (or frozen and thawed) fruit puree (red color is nice)

1 cup crushed cookies* (your choice; vanilla wafers, graham crackers, etc.)



Instructions

Layer pudding, puree and cookie crumbles* in parfait cups or glasses, starting with a layer of pudding.  Pudding layers should be about 1 inch deep.  Use 2 tablespoons of puree and 1 Tablespoon of cookie crumbles for each layer.   Top last layer with whipped cream (if desired)

* place cookies in a plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin.  You can also substitute granola for the cookie crumbles

Sweet-tart pear cobbler with fruit puree.  Yum!

Sweet-Tart Individual Cobblers

These cobblers are baked in 4- to 6-ounce, oven-safe ramekins or souffle dishes.  The cobblers can be made with your choice of biscuit topping: sweetened biscuit mix; your favorite biscuit recipe (sweetened just a little); or using ready to bake biscuits. 

The sweet flavor of the pears contrasts beautifully with the tart zest of the fruit puree.  You can serve these cobblers hot (or re-warmed in the micro-wave), cold or at room temperature. They can be baked ahead of time, making them a good choice for the busy holiday season.  And a baked dessert tastes just right on cold winter nights. 

Sweet-tart Cobblers - before placing biscuit top.

Ingredients

3-5 medium to large, ripe pears

1 pint preserved (or frozen and thawed) fruit puree

Biscuit mix or ready to bake biscuits

1/3 cup sugar



Instructions

Preheat oven to 350˚ F.   Wash, peel and core pears.  Cut into ¼ inch chunks.  Divide pear chunks between 6 to 8 ramekins.  The pears should cover about half of the depth of the ramekin.  Top pears with 2 Tablespoons of fruit puree.   Top puree with un-baked biscuit rounds that are slightly smaller than the diameter of the ramekins.  If making biscuits from mix or scratch, add 1/3 cup sugar per 2 cups biscuit mix.  Roll out dough to ¼ inch thick; cut biscuit rounds to slightly smaller than the ramekin diameter. 

Place ramekins on a cookie sheet in pre-heated oven.  Bake at 350˚ F for 30-40 minutes, or until biscuits are golden brown and filling is bubbly.  Cool slightly and serve; or cool entirely and serve (or store in the refrigerator).   Enjoy!

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

Plant of the Month (December) : Flowering Quince – Chaenomeles species and hybrids

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species) 

Last month we featured our Japanese Crab Apple, chosen by the former owners as an anchor plant for their Japanese-themed garden (https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2019/11/plant-of-month-november-japanese.html).  This month, we feature another of our heritage fruiting plants, the Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species).  Both of these plants, while not Colorado natives, have much to recommend them.  And both do well in the gardens of western Colorado.

The genus Chaenomeles contains but four Asian species: Chaenomeles japonica, C. cathayensis, C. speciosa and C. thibetica [1]. The genus, in the Rose family (Rosaceae), is related to the true quince (Cydonia oblonga) and the Chinese quince (Pseudocydonia sinensis).  The genus name is pronounced kie-NOM-e-lez.  The Asian quinces have a long and confusing taxonomic history.  For more on the taxonomy, see reference 2 (below).

Japanese quince, Chaenomeles japonica (also known as Maul’s quince), is native to the low mountain woodlands of central and southern Japan. The fruit is called Kusa-boke (草木瓜) in Japanese.  The Japanese quince has also been known as Chaenomeles maulei, Cydonia japonica, Cydonia maulei, Pyrus japonica and P. maulei [3].

The more common Chaenomeles speciosa or Flowering quince (sometimes also known as ‘Japanese quince’, ‘Chinese quince’ and Zhou Pi Mugua) and the other two species are native to China.  Chaenomeles speciosa has also been called C. laganaria, Cydonia lagenaria, Cydonia speciosa, and Pyrus japonica. 

Many of the plants sold as Flowering or Japanese quince are actually hybrids.  Four named hybrids have been bred in gardens. The most common is C. × superba (hybrid C. speciosa × C. japonica), while C. × vilmoriniana is a hybrid C. speciosa × C. cathayensis, and C. × clarkiana is a hybrid C. japonica × C. cathayensis. The hybrid C. × californica is a tri-species hybrid (C. × superba × C. cathayensis).  

Common horticultural cultivars of Chaenomeles include:

• 'Cameo' - Double, apricot-pink flowers; 4' to 5' tall; few thorns.
• 'Contorta' - Twisted stems and white flowers; showy in winter.
• 'Jet Trail' - A low-growing (to 3' tall); pure white blossoms.
• 'Nivalis' - A vigorous, upright growth; White, single flowers.
• 'Texas Scarlet' - Low-growing (to 4' tall); bright red flowers; few thorns; apple-like fruit good for culinary purposes.
• 'Orange Delight': low spreading plant, bright orange flowers.
• 'Toyo-Nishiki' - Upright, rounded habit (6' to 10' tall); red, pink and white flowers in the same flower cluster; very hardy, but may be more prone to fireblight disease.
• 'Scarlet Storm', 'Orange Storm', 'Pink Storm' – thornless; double flowers; no fruits

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species):

 habit of small cultivar

Of the four Chaenomeles species , only C. cathayensis grows to more than 3-5 meters (9-15 ft) tall; most are small to large shrubs. They are often wider than they are tall.   All species (with the exception a few hybrid cultivars) are very thorny, and have a rather wild appearance, often with overlapping gray-brown twiggy branches.  The overall shape is rounded, but there is much variability between individual plants. 

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species): foliage

The foliage is fairly typical for the Rose Family.  Leaves are medium to dark glossy green, alternate, and elliptical in shape.  Leaf margins are serrated.  Young leaves may be orange/red tinted, but fall leaves do not provide much color, usually falling while still green. 

    

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species) : flowering plant

Asian quinces usually flower before the plants leaf out, often in March or April; as a result,  flower buds may be injured by cold weather. The flowers are surprisingly showy for these modest-appearing shrubs. Plants are often chosen specifically for their floral characteristics, though flowers last but 2-3 weeks.  Flowers grow on 2-4 year-old wood, so care must be taken to not over-prune. The flowers are often clustered, and individual flowers one to 1 ½ inches (3-4 cm) wide.

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species) : flowers

The flowers of all species within the genus Chaenomeles normally have five sepals and five petals. The petals can vary from white to darkest red through pink, orange, and scarlet, and bi-colored petals are frequent. The species’ have single petals, but some cultivars have double flowers.  The flowers have many stamens and produce abundant nectar (but are scentless).  Flowers are pollinated by bumblebees and European Honey bees.  In some areas, the flowers also attract hummingbirds.

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species) : ripe fruits

Fruits are apple- or roughly pear-shaped, depending on species and cultivar.  Fruits are 1 ½ to 2 ½ inches long, yellow-green or pale orange, and remain hard even when ripe.  Fruits ripen in October or November; a few falling from the shrub (see above) is often a good sign the fruits are mature.  Ripe fruits are easy to pick.

While small, the fruits of Flowering Quince are similar in flavor (and other qualities) to the true quince.  All require cooking to enhance their flavor and soften their texture.  Many quince fruits also attain a soft peach tint with cooking.  Quince can be used to make jelly, quince butter, syrups and puree.  For tips on making fruit puree see: https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2019/11/colorado-gourmet-making-fruit-purees.html.  

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species) : making puree

Like pears and apples, fruits can be poached in wine or juice for a nice cold-weather desert. They can also be used to make kitchen cordials.  In fact, they can be used in any recipe that calls for quince.  They are high in Vitamin C, antioxidants, pectin and fiber – and have a pleasant aroma and tart flavor. There is current interest in developing hardy, high-producing cultivars for fruit production [1].

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles species) : may become

 a common domesticated fruit in the future.

Flowering Quince is easy to grow and hardy from USDA Zones 5-9.  Choose a site where plants can grow to their full size (read up on the characteristics of your cultivar) and where thorny branches are not a problem. Best flowering/fruiting occurs in full sun, although plants can tolerate some shade.   They are adaptable to many soil types, but can become chlorotic (yellow leaves) in soils with pH above 7.5.  If you have alkali soil, give plants a yearly treatment with an acid fertilizer.  Plants also benefit from a spring application of compost.

Flowering Quinces tolerate dry soils; you can probably get by with a deep summer watering every other week in Western Colorado.  Keep the area around and beneath quinces well-weeded.   Prune out dead, old branches in winter (you may want to mark these in fall before plants lose their leaves). Some cultivars tend to sucker, so watch and prune out suckers if desired.  That’s really about all there is to routine care.

Cultivars have different susceptibilities to diseases and pests, so be sure to learn the characteristics of the plant you choose.  As members of the Rose Family, apple scab can cause significant summer defoliation; and scale, mites and aphids can be problematic. In wet years, plants may be susceptible to fungal leaf spot. Watch especially for Fire blight and prune out affected branches with sterile pruners.  Rabbits may eat twigs in winter.

Flowering quinces make a great addition to an Asian-themed garden – even a small one.  They are often used as border shrubs and are ‘wild’ enough in appearance to be appropriate for a woodland garden.   Plants make a good hedge, although hedge-pruning reduces flowering and fruiting. The thorny types make great barrier plants.  Flowering quinces are appropriate for home fruit orchards, providing an interesting and unusual alternative to more common fruits.  And massed Chaenomeles provide a spectacular – if short-lived – floral display in early spring.    

Flowering Quinces are used as medicinal plants in Asia, often as an anti-inflammatory in joint and muscle problems.  They are also used to treat and cure seasonal respiratory illness, and as a general tonic to stimulate health or recovery from illness.  For more on the medicinal properties of Chaenomeles, see references 4 and 5.

In summary, the Chaenomeles species provide an interesting alternative to garden shrubs commonly planted in western Colorado and the Four Corners states.  You might want to consider one for your own home garden.

For plant information sheets on Western native plants see: http://nativeplantscsudh.blogspot.com/p/gallery-of-native-plants_17.html



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1. https://hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/ncnu02/v5-385.html
2. https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2018/9/quince/
3. https://permaculturenews.org/2017/01/16/quincessential-guide-japanese-quince-chaenomeles-speciosa/
4. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3917013/
5. http://www.itmonline.org/articles/chaenomeles/chaenomeles.htm

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

Colorado Gourmet: Making Fruit Purees from Fresh-frozen Fruits

Pears and other fruits can be used to make fruit purees.

Many of our best garden fruits ripen in the warm days of summer and early fall. It’s really too hot then to feel like making preserves.  Since we have freezer space, we often clean and core/pit the fruits, then freeze them for later use. We don’t remove the skins; they’ll come off easily when fruits are thawed.  We also cut the larger fruits (like pears) into ½ inch pieces.  That way they are ready for making jam or other preserves. 

Hawthorn fruits

This year produced a bumper crop of fruits in our neighborhood.  As neighbors tend to share, we were blessed with an abundance of plums, apricots, pears and peaches, in addition to our own crab apples, quince and hawthorn.  Many of the fruits this year were small – a challenge for removing the pits before freezing.  But that’s not a problem, provided you want to make juice and/or fruit puree.  

Cooking plums to make plum puree

Just place frozen fruits in a large cooking pot, barely cover with water, then heat to boiling.  After the mixture comes to a boil, reduce heat, cover and cook at a low temperature until the fruit is soft, stirring occasionally.

Foley Food Mill

Remove the hot fruit from the stove.  If there’s lots of juice, pour off the juice and use it for making jelly or syrup.  Process the rest of the fruit mixture to create the puree.  For fruits with no/small seeds, we like to process using a Foley Food Mill (above).  This clever device allows you to easily create fruit puree from hot cooked fruit.   It’s also great for making apple sauce, pear sauce and fruit butters. You can purchase a Foley mill from kitchen stores or on-line.

  

Straining plum puree through a colander

If your fruit has large seeds (pits), you’ll need to strain the hot fruit using a colander or large sieve.  Simply push the mixture through the sieve, using a cooking spoon or scraper.  It takes a little work, but isn’t too difficult.  Discard the remaining pits/skins.

Taste the puree.  If it’s too tart for your liking, add sugar to taste.   But, unless you're making fruit leather, we suggest leaving your puree a little tart.  You can always increase the sweetness when using the puree in a recipe.

At this point you can cool the puree and create fruit leather using a dehydrator.  You can also freeze the puree for future use (we suggest freezing in pint-size portions). Or preserve it, using the boiling water bath canning method. 

Plum puree (l) and juice

If canning, return the puree to the cooking pot.  Heat over medium heat until the mixture comes to a full, rolling boil, stirring frequently.  Ladle hot puree into hot, sterilized, pint-size canning jars.  Process in boiling water bath for appropriate time (10 minutes below 1000 ft elevation; add 1 minute for every 1000 ft. above 1000 ft. elevation).  After processing, cool, label and store in a cool, dry place.  Purees will last up to 2 years if processed this way.

Fruit purees are a convenient staple to have on hand.  We’ll share some recipes that use fruit purees next month.

Jars of Apricot, Plum and Quince Purees

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

Creating Your Colorado-friendly Garden: 4 – Mapping Use Areas (Creating a Bubble Map)

Over the past month you developed a ‘Needs & Dreams’ list that contains all the features and functions your family wants in your Colorado-friendly Garden.   You also defined water goals for your garden.  Now the creative part begins – you get to play around with different ways to fit the functional clusters into the space you’ve got.   One of the easiest ways is to create a Bubble Plan (also known as a Concept Plan or Bubble Map).

A bubble plan is simply a map with functional clusters roughly located by outlines (bubbles) of the areas they will occupy. You can draw your bubble plan(s) on copies of your Base Map 1b (see https://mothernaturesmontrosegarden.blogspot.com/2019/08/creating-your-colorado-friendly-garden.html).  You’ll need several copies as you’ll likely go through several iterations of your bubble plan.  Alternatively, take a sheet of tracing paper and overlay onto a copy of your Base Map.    

Draw bubble outlines in pencil to suggest where the different use areas might be placed.  Be sure to include all the functional clusters you defined last month.   Bubble size should correspond to the approximate size of each functional area.  For example, if you want a play area for children that is 20’ by 20’, draw your ‘play area bubble’ approximately 20’ x 20’.  

Sometimes it’s easier to see what we mean by working through an example. Below is the Base Map for an example small garden.  

Example Base Map - small garden

The homeowners have defined several functional clusters for their Private Areas:

·         Lawn

·         Shady Seating Area

·         Maintenance Area

·         Butterfly Garden

·         Quiet Area

·         Vegetable Garden

Below is their first attempt at drawing Bubble Map.

Example: first Bubble Map draft

At this point, step back from your bubble plan and look at it critically.  The outdoor areas should have a strong relationship with the areas and activities within your home. For example, outdoor cooking areas should be located adjacent to indoor kitchen or dining facilities. Service and storage areas should be located away from main use areas and views from the home – and provide easy access from backyard and front yard if that’s important. Patios and decks should directly tie into main circulation areas from the home.

Your bubble plan also needs to reflect the physical characteristics of the garden site (your site’s ‘assets’).  If you haven’t yet completed a site physical assessment, now’s the time to do so.  We walk you through the process in our September, 2019 postings (Planning Your Colorado-friendly Garden: Site Physical Assessment).  Below are the Physical Assessment Maps for the example site.

Physical Characteristics of the Site

When we compare the first bubble plan with the site’s light/shade patterns and other characteristics (see above) we note a few problems.  First, the Maintenance Area will be readily visible from the house and garden seating areas.  It might be better to move it to the area just south of the garage.  This area is less visible and provides access from both front and backyard.  We’ll have to build a smaller shed – and sell the old one on Craig’s list – but that’s a much better spot for the maintenance area.  

There are also some challenges for the Lawn Area. Note the slope on the South side of the site – a slope that will be difficult to use as a lawn.  If we move the Butterfly Garden Area to the sunny slope, it will provide flowers visible from lawn, patio and house.  Since butterflies – and their host plants - like sun, this is a better location than the shady east side.  If we move the Vegetable Garden to the sunny southwest corner, it will be pretty, functional and also attract butterflies.   You can already envision the lovely flowers and interesting foliage surrounding the seating areas.

The lawn can fill the space between the Shady Seating Area and the Butterfly/Vegetable Garden Areas.   As seen above, this area has a low spot and an area of poor drainage.  We’ll have to choose a lawn grass (or grass-like plants) that can handle these conditions.   Considering all of these insights, we create a revised bubble plan.

Example: second Bubble Map draft

The revised plan has much to recommend it.  The maintenance and vegetable garden areas are close to each other – and right out the kitchen door.  We’ve got areas of sunny and shady seating.  We’ve located our butterfly garden where the butterflies will come and we can watch them.  If we need more butterfly plants, we can also plant the showier ones in sunny areas in the front yard.

Revised Bubble Map better reflects the site's physical characteristics

As seen above, the views looking south will be lovely:  lawn, a flowery slope and attractive views in the distance.  We’ll also get good air circulation with the afternoon breezes.   We do have a visual eyesore (the side of the neighbor’s garage) to the east of the quiet/meditation area.  We’ll need to do something creative to turn that view into something attractive.   But we’ve managed to create an overall garden plan that reflects the family needs and the realities of the site.

In creating your own bubble map, there are likely a number of workable layouts that will accommodate your functional areas.  Some will make better use of space and the physical features of your site.  And some will simply appeal to you more than others.     We suggest trying several different schemes until the best layout becomes evident.   You’ll probably want to work on this over a few weeks, as new ideas may come to you as you work and see other garden ideas.    

Once you’re satisfied with your bubble diagram, take a copy of your Base Map 2 and create a final Use Areas Map.  File the map behind your Functional Analysis Worksheet for reference.  Don’t have a garden notebook yet?   It’s time to start a binder/notebook for your maps, plans, pictures and notes.    We will use these materials in the next sections of this series.

Now is a good time to look at gardening books and magazines for some inspiration.  You don’t need to spend a lot of money; your local public library likely has lots of resources.  Also visit botanic gardens, demonstration gardens and native plant gardens for good ideas.  Get out in nature to see how Mother Nature gardens. Take lots of pictures and notes.  You’re going to be glad you did this (fun) background work when we get to next month’s activities.

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com

Plant of the Month (November) : Japanese Crabapple – Malus floribunda

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda): Mother Nature's Montrose Garden

We mostly feature native plants from the Western U.S. on this blog.  But we’ll occasionally highlight non-native plants with good garden characteristics.  Some of these are legacy plants in Mother Nature’s Montrose Garden; plants chosen by the previous gardener.  One such plant, which attracts lots of fruit-eating birds in fall, is the Japanese Crabapple, Malus floribunda. The scientific name is pronounces MAL (or MAYL)-us  flor-ih-BUN-duh.

Malus is the genus name for the apples, some of which are native to the U.S.  But the vast majority of species are native to Asia.  Japanese Crabapple is native to Japan, which is one of the reasons it appealed to the previous gardener.  It may be a wild species, or may be a hybrid between two other apple species: Malus sieboldii and M. baccata. It belongs to the family Rosaceae (the Rose family). 

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda): growth form

Malus floribunda is a large shrub or small tree. It has a somewhat open form, with arching branches.  It commonly grows to 15-25 ft. tall (4.5 to7.5 m.) and 20-30 ft. (6-9 m.) wide.  Its smaller size makes it a good choice for smaller yards.  It combines many good attributes in a modest-sized package: summer shade, spring flowers and edible fruits.

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda): foliage

The foliage of Japanese Crabapple is fairly typical for the apple species. The leaves are medium to dark green, slender ovate, with serrate edges.   The species is winter deciduous, losing its leaves after the first few good frosts.  The leaf color is not particularly showy (golden), but the red-brown young bark and fruits are moderately so, particularly after leaves are gone.

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda):

attractive in winter

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda): white flowers

The flowers are a major reason why this is a popular garden crabapple. The buds are pink; the flowers begin pale pink and mature to white.  The plant is literally covered with flowers. The species name floribunda means ‘many-flowered’, which well describes this species.

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda):

 typical apple flowers

The flowers themselves are typical for the Rose family: five simple petals and many prominent stamens (above).  The flowers are sweetly scented and attract a range of pollinators, including bees and butterflies. The flowers are among the best in the Malus; this and the interesting growth form earned it the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit.

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda): maturing fruits

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda): edible fruits

The fruits of Japanese Crabapple are small, yellow or red crabapples, about 1/3 inch (1 cm) in diameter.  The fruits are showy only after leaves fall. The fruits remain hard until after a good frost, when they become soft and sweet.  The fruits are small but definitely edible (we often include some in mixed-fruit jellies).  And the fruits are a popular treat for fruit-eating birds like robins and cedar waxwings. Our little tree has been stripped by flocks of hungry migrants in a matter of a few days!   If you want to provide food for hungry birds, Japanese Crabapple is a good addition to your garden.

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda):

 fruit-eating birds love the fruits

Malus floribunda is relatively easy to grow. It tolerates some cold, and is recommended for USDA Hardiness Zones 4 – 8.  It likes full sun and regular water, but is not fussy about soil texture.  It tolerates moderately acidic to moderately alkali soils (pH up to at least 8).

Japanese Crabapple is more resistant than other Malus to the pests and diseases common to the genus.  In fact, it has been used as breeding stock in the development of disease-resistant cultivars [1].   That being said, it is an apple, and subject to some of the usual challenges to apple health.  New foliage attracts foliage-eating insects such as aphids.  Scale insects and mites are also potential problems; these can usually be controlled with horticultural oil.  In areas where they are common, tent caterpillars can also be a problem.

Japanese Crabapple is slightly susceptible to apple scab, leaf spot and powdery mildew and has some susceptibility to fireblight.  For more on pests and diseases, and their control, see ref. 2 (below).

Malus floribunda is often used as a small tree in home gardens. In fact, it was first imported to the U.S. in the 1860’s, and has been used in gardens ever since.  It does well as a street tree, as long as fruits don’t fall on passersby.  It makes a pretty specimen, as both its form and flowers contrast well with surrounding trees and shrubs.

Japanese Crabapple (Malus floribunda):

 provides a contrasting form

  

Japanese Crabapple can be used as a screen or tall hedge plant.  It is amenable to espalier, and can even be used as a specimen for bonsai.  It has a nice natural form, however, and needs little pruning (unless desired).   We’d rate it fairly high as a habitat plant.  It provides pollen and nectar for the pollinators, and cover, nesting sites and food for the birds.  In short, Malus floribunda is worthy of consideration for Colorado gardens (unless you have a natural aversion to apple trees!).

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1.       http://www.plantmaster.com/share/eplant.php?plantnum=25735

2.       http://hort.ufl.edu/database/documents/pdf/tree_fact_sheets/malfloa.pdf

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We welcome your comments (below).  You can also send your questions to: monaturesmontrosegarden@gmail.com